With Week Three the three thousand-mile-trek begins in earnest. Although the sun came out the wind was strong and gusting. Normally I'd try to get off early but since I was passing through the outskirts of Halifax and was driving only 80 miles today I got a late start and ended up driving in cross winds. A short hop I stopped at Masstown for Grapenut Ice Cream and Garrison Hopyard Ale in part to ensure I wouldn't arrive too early at my campsite. Elm River was open and camping was $25/night.
Before I left this morning, Monday, October 24th I spent a tense hour finding campgrounds along my route that are reputed to be open when I get there. Programmed them into Microsoft Trips and the itinerary app of my GPS, after charging said unit.
As I've said before the excitement and lore of travel is often more in the planning and remembrance, the telling, than in the actual experience. And a corollary the most spectacular views will always occur in a location where it is impossible to stop and take pictures. Such was the case as I drove past fields of heath turned brilliant red by autumn everything tinged by a sense of nostalgia as I was leaving the province of my birth.
I stopped at Masstown Market just beyond Truro and picked up a container of Grapenuts Ice Cream after determining that it would just fit in my RV Freezer and a 6-pack of Garrison Hopyard IPA one of two in the NSLC outlet in the store. I didn't want to arrive too early at Elm River Campground. The place was open but the water turned off and the washrooms and laundry closed. The “library” revealed the usual collection the only volumes I'd have considered I'd already read. After a walk around the park settled in to catch up online.
Day Two--Opted to skip the Coboquid Pass Toll Road and found route 4 through Wentworth Valley recently repaved and the views of mountain and heather breathtaking. Stopped for fuel in NB that didn't seem any cheaper. Then followed the long drive through NB on HWY 2. The four transmission towers for the former Radio Canada International no longer stand overlooking Tantramar Marsh. Wind and rain had brought down most of the autumn leaves I'd seen barely a week earlier. I reached Fredericton and remembered it was another hour to Woodstock and the Houlton, Maine Border Crossing Opposite. That checkpoint was a few minutes drive South-West. The bored, humourless, over-weight border guard gave me the most perfunctory of examinations—he didn't even ask about alcohol or tobacco—and sent me on my way. I wasn't complaining. A few miles later found the Maine Welcome Centre proudly proclaiming that they are open year round. A brave undertaking given the lack of traffic. The place was warm and welcoming. I-95 was smooth and straight and I had it all to myself; I didn't even see a moose—again I'm not complaining.
When I found Katahdin Shadows Campground the lights were on but nobody was home. Two tiny file cards were available for one to self-register. I found a sandy almost level site opposite the main building nestled among the evergreens. The washroom was open and warm. I found a Wi-Fi connection that worked and the possibility of awakening to an inch of white stuff! Quiet night.
Next morning grabbed a few pictures thankful there was no snow and started out. Again no other traffic until I reached Bangor. After that highway construction and toll roads ruled the day. The Massachusetts Welcome Centre wasn't, welcoming that is. When I finally reached the KOA I'd found online was still open I got a rude and condescending non-welcome. Noted a place I'll never return to. The open air washroom was open and the water on but the temperature hit 23 that night for the second day in a row. The campsite was not level and exposed to the wind. We weathered it and put away a balky power cord next morning and shook the crushed rock of the site off our heels.
The day did not improve. Opting to avoid toll roads I drove an internecine route through Holyoke and ended up climbing a mountain behind a transport truck labouring up a steep grade joined by a mile-long queue. Loads of morning traffic as I drove through suburb after suburb, rain a constant companion. As I climbed later into the Poconos it began snowing flurries followed by a blizzard that covered trees and fields. Out of the mountains the rain continued unremittingly. Stopped at the Pennsylvania Welcome Centre and was greeted by a disinterested agent. Shortly after turning South I entered a Fog Warning area and dense fog ensued for the next hour. As if matters couldn't get worse I hit an hour-long construction delay just short of my turn-off in Harrisburg.
The GPS found Harrisburg East Campground for me for the second time, the first eight years ago. A young lady unlocked the office to sign me in for forty-some dollars a night. As I'd driven south the temperature that had hovered around 33 all day rose to 48.
Next morning, a Friday, I was greeted by sunlight. I'm writing this as I wait for rush hour civil servants to get around to the state's business. The Wi-Fi service having decided I've used too much band width I'm throttled so that I can download E-mail but not read it. Just as I'm about to leave it starts working.
The day's drive began with an aggressive driver trying to zip by me as I entered the expressway. Heavy traffic continued all day however it was sunny and I had no crosswinds. The drive was 3½ hours. Stopped at the Virginia Welcome Centre after crossing 12 miles of Maryland and 20 miles of West Virginia. I did not repeat the mistake I made eight years ago by visiting the West Virginia Info Centre.
After passing through territory devoid of leaves and missing leaf peeping in fog, rain, and snow I've crossed the Mason-Dixon Line and entered the balmy South where leaves are barely tinged. There are two Shenandoah Valley Campgrounds in Virginia, the one in Verona managed to squeeze me in—just. They take Hallowe'en seriously here. The owners are proving just how rapidly rabbits can reproduce. Bunnies everywhere.
Two nights camping adds up to one day in camp. I was perched on a sand back overlooking what I am told is the Middle River. I took a morning walk and an early evening one discovering a lively little 30-ft waterfall cascading down to join the main stream. Pleasant chat with a fellow camper. I did not participate in the Hallowe’en festivities and settled in to read and was not bothered by scores of trick or treaters who wended their way at 2:00 PM. I did admire the few sites decorated for Hallowe’en.
Sunday the 30th was sunny, indeed it got quite warm as I continued driving South-West on I-81. Before I left Verona I stopped at Food Lion for Groceries tendering the loyalty card I picked up in 2008 and managed to locate in my van the night before. Stopped for gas but got out the binos and discovered it 20¢/gal cheaper at $1.95 just down the street. Constant Sunday driver traffic all day and it got warm and somewhat windy to boot. While I sat in construction delayed traffic I railed to myself at the yahoos who impeded traffic by insisting on driving in a lane plainly marked as closed 3 miles ahead. Alas, stupidity is not illegal.
Forty miles earlier stopped at the Tennessee Welcome Centre for a break, had lunch earlier at a rest area. Baileyton RV Park is quiet and well run. The list of rules betokens past experience with unruly campers but the staff I met were pleasant. East Tennessee is a hotbed of Trump supporters. Even the Devil has fans it seems.
An entire valley on fire just East of my campground, seems lit by a campfire.
Spent the evening reading Combat Crew by John Comer. In the morning began with a fill-up for $1.93 at a local Greenville gas station. Ten miles later it was $2.35 and later as low as $1.83--quite a spread. Save for the large volume of truck traffic the day was unremarkable.
Two Rivers Campground was little changed. Visited the kiosk at KOA and met with a Viking who failed to find tickets to the Opry at the Ryman, sold out as it is opening night for the 84-year-old Tammy Wynette. Pictured she looks like a dried prune. Browsed Camping World but didn’t find anything to spend my money on. A windshield cover for my Van is supposedly a special order item, even a custom job.
Stayed over a day to rest and indulged in a bag of “Organic” Corn Chips and a 6-pack of Blackstone APA. Watched two movies downloaded to my Laptop.
Got caught in morning rush hour traffic. Stopped an hour later for gas at Flying J where Good Sam got me a 3¢ discount on the $1.96 price. More truck traffic making finding open road a challenge. Do you pass or go with the flow? Trucks grind to a snail’s pace on hills. Construction around Memphis and traffic made getting in the right lane difficult. One exit was blocked or no longer in use.
A stop at the local Shoneys buffet in West Memphis was filling but not a gormet experience. Tom Sawyers Campground is little changed, the access road further broken in town. I got a site down by the river, paid my respects to Ole Man River, talked to a fellow traveller and settled in for a nap after quaffing a beer.
Thursday, November 3 was a day of spotty showers and calm air. Heavy truck traffic on I-40 to Little Rock. Passed the potential First Man’s Presidential Library. For whatever reasons Arkansas Roads are uneven and bumpy due to eroded concrete block chinks. Today’s was a long drive. Heavy construction and realigned highways in Texarkana confuse my GPS and me, the driver. Old Highway 71 beaten to a pulp.
Was greeted at Shreveport KOA by Cookie, the doggie mascot. Good to feel at home. Free morning coffee another plus. What I needed most was a good night’s rest.
Friday Morning got off around 8:30 after a slow start. Entered the Great State of Texas around 9:00, stopping to visit the Welcome Centre and pick up bumph. Ignored my GPS that wanted me to drive over to I-35 and brave the construction, speed zones and traffic. Rather I turned left on Texas 259 and continued along 79 South West. Save for the small towns along the way the speed limit is 70 all the way. Driving at that speed on a two-lane takes some getting used to but for the first miles the drive was remarkably smooth and devoid of other traffic. Further South the road lacked passing lanes and getting stuck behind slow moving traffic can be frustrating. The road also got rather rough in spots. Stopped briefly in Thorndale driving a few backroads to have a look at the farm country.
Arrived in Austin around 3:00 and slowly got settled greeting Gilbert who was waiting to pick up his wife Janey as usual.
