On the Fifth Day of Christmas

December 29, 2008

Two more days of 2008 remaining. Dawn is breaking on a clear sky and the workaday world is coming back to life. Even had I five gold rings I wouldn't know what to do with them. There's a pawn shop just down South Lamar where I could dispose of them I suppose. I've never liked jewelry of any kind. Speaking of which there was a recent news item about thieves stealing 2 million dollars worth of jewelry from Paris Hilton's bedroom. I can't imagine anyone needing that much jewelry and owning it not keeping it in a wall-safe or safety deposit box.

I just spread bread crumbs in the grass outside my RV and already there are a dozen boat-tail grackles and a bluejay fighting over it. It doesn't seem to take long for the word to spread. I have corn tortillas for the Huevos Rancheros I plan to make for breakfast but the birds are cleaning up my bread crusts so I need to go shopping tomorrow. I'll need to put together a shopping list before I go. Even retired dilettantes need to go shopping. While I'm out I should check out whether I should fill up my tank as gasoline is now as low as $1.26 a gallon. Retired or not clothes still get dirty and dust bunnies collect and need sweeping before they start fighting with one another. I need to get into the rear of my RV and re-organize things. Among other things I need to put away the DVD's I've finished watching.

The Canadian Citizenship Minister has decided that Santa Claus is a Canadian. If he and the rest of his government don't soon do something about global warming I figure Santa Claus will have his houseboat moored in International Waters. With the economy headed South I doubt the Canadian Government could finance gifts for all the children of the world.

After the near tropical days that seemed so incongruous to me at Christmas it has turned cold again. At least I should be thankful that the cold front blew in without causing dangerous storms or major flooding. I'm thankful for my heat pump even if it is noisy. After a month in one place I'm beginning to feel the need to travel again. I'm comfortable here but I risk the danger of getting too comfortable. I do long for a view of mountains and streams to replace the lattice fence bordering Romeo's Patio I'm looking at from my bedroom window, the construction derricks I see from my front windows, and my sloppy neighbours next door. Before it becomes too wrenching to leave I guess I'll need to get moving again.

I'm about to file an application for the Nova Scotia Campground Host Program. If successful this will give me something useful to do a year into my retirement. It will also provide me with somewhere to park rent-free next summer.

Until I went on the road in August I hadn't realized how much I took for granted High-Speed Internet Service. The majority of campgrounds I've visited provide complimentary Wi-Fi­ but there is a wide variation in quality and I've run into places where it doesn't exist. Watching paint dry while a web page opens is not fun. At present I'm pirating the free service local restaurants provide their customers and I access the best signal late at night. Hence this blog is not likely to be posted until early Tuesday morning. I will probably investigate a Wi-Fi Card but that's an expensive option and getting a signal is not always guaranteed in remote locations. Meanwhile I have a back log of streamed Pipe Dreams Programs that goes back all the way to July. Even if I manage to access high-speed internet bandwidth will be an issue as in this congested online world ISP's are putting limits on it.

On the Third Day of Christmas

Saturday, December 27^th

The day dawned warm and overcast. It still seems strange to have an overnight low of 72 at Christmastime. Thankfully the construction workers appear to be taking a four-day weekend and all is peace and quiet.

I just fulfilled my threat to make a batch of corn tortillas. Having no point of comparison I have no idea about the success of the venture but I believe them to be moist enough to sustain re-warming without becoming over-dry.

Already a group of bicyclists have passed by on Barton Stprings Rd and the sun is slowly working at appearing through the clouds. A cold night is in the forecast but for the moment my A/C works away at cooling the RV.

Yesterday I took a walk down South Lamar all the way to a watering hole called the Alamo. Alamo is an iconic word in Texas raising connotations of bravery, nationality, and pride. In the same small plaza is a movie theatre, a religious bookshop, and a guitar store along with the usual hair saloons and such like. For my return trip which was largely downhill I took the residential street, Kinney Ave with its modest homes and unique landscaping and colour schemes. Just before the scarp that leads down again to Barton Springs is a large estate which has a Purple Martin Sanctuary complete with signs and park benches.

For supper I walked down again to Chuys and discovered the joint jumping with a ten-minute wait for a table. I ordered a shot of straight tequila as planned along with another Strawberry Margarita and a Taco Salad. Plain tequila, with or without salt and lime slice seemed rather tasteless save for the sense of the liquor at its base. I like margaritas and the Taco in which the salad was served was a might doughy. The noise of conversation was so loud I wasn’t even aware of the child squalling immediately behind me. Must go back at least once more when things aren’t so busy. My salsa bowl was allowed to sit empty and neglected.

In the evening began the series Heroes of which I’ve already acquired season two on the strength of its reviews. Now that I’ve watched several episodes I’m surprised that it has managed to survive the ratings game. Series with such diverse and distinct characters on several continents that require an audience to be cerebrally engaged don’t normally survive even the first season let alone get renewed for their third. Especially when so many of its main characters are nerdy misfits. After I’ve had opportunity to get more involved with the characterization I will write a review.

After just over 4 months on the road I’ve finally accomplished two things that had so far eluded me. After getting my FM Antenna properly connected to my fancy onboard AV Player I managed to tune in my favourite NPR Station. Then I set about getting my Archos Player connected; through the TV rather than the DVD Player itself as it happens. All it took was sufficient time to fiddle with connections and read manuals. When dealing with three disparate systems a wrong setting on any one of them can throw things off.

In the evening the weather began another mood screen dropping to a low of 44. At least we were spared the violent weather that was threatened to accompany the gusty winds that brought in the present cold front. I spent part of the evening taking advantage of my ability to listen to radio.

Christmas 2009--Austin Texas

First and foremost is the novelty of being able to sit outside comfortably in short shirt sleeves while the A/C cools my RV. I may miss the reflection of Christmas lights off a counterpane of snow but I certainly don't miss shoveling or trudging though it. Since it's been over a decade since I was "home" for Christmas I'm not as lonesome as one might expect.

Monday was cold, foggy, with intermittent rain. Tuesday wasn't much better but in the afternoon I went for a long walk uptown to explore more of Austin making it north as far as Tenth Street before heading East to Congress Ave and the business section. After encountering law offices advertising their get out of jail services and numerous bale bondsmen I finally realized that I was outside the Court of Justice. I'd read of Denver Boots but until this point I'd never seen one. Anyone dumb enough to illegally park outside a police station deserves what they get. After reaching my objective, a Bank of America I noted that a shoe shine costs $5.00 and I was assured by the gal operating it for her husband they were the best deal in town. My shoes don't require polish. After missing several buses I decided to walk back across the Congress Ave Bridge listening to the peals of the clock tower playing Christmas Carols. I managed to work up a sweat.

Christmas Eve dawned clear and warmed up quickly. A new acquaintance from church picked me up mid-afternoon and gave me a sight-seeing tour of West Austin on the way to his home annotating the drive with a geology lesson—that is his specialty. Meeting 25 new people all at once is overwhelming but I remember Barkley the dog. The drinks and Swedish Goodies were excellent; the home book-lined and accented by numerous art pieces. Mein host gave me a ride home on his way to a Santa gig. Time for a nap.

Got myself organized when I awakened and took city streets to get me to church. The chancel was decorated by no less than 100 poinsettias. I expect they're cheaper here than in Ontario. The service began with the homily and moved on to lessons and carols. It would seem officialdom frowns upon candlelit services and large crowds and this being a Swedish congregation a girl with a crown of Candles lit our personal candles for the brief candlelit service. Time was when I needed no books to sing any popular Christmas Carol but alas the makers of new hymnals feel it their duty to muddy the waters by creating new translations to confuse the likes of me. Having a neighbour singing Alto served to encourage my Bass. I'm not familiar with the tradition of Christmas Apples but helped myself to a Red Delicious in any case.

Outside Orion ruled a clear night sky and the Star of Bethlehem in the stained glass wall was lit from the exterior of the building. On the street was parked an Austin Police Car. On a whim I walked over and wished the young officer who looked barely out of high school a Merry Christmas as he'd drawn Christmas duty being low man on the totem pole. I'll never know what it meant to him but it made me feel good. Back in my RV I took the return trip home listening to carols on radio and after getting set up again was not long waiting for bed.

Christmas day was quiet especially since all the local businesses closed for the day. I spent the day quietly in my RV.

Than One Foggy Christmas Eve

Well, it certainly is foggy here in any case. Fog is a cloud at ground level. Isn’t helping any. After 4 days of overcast skies and rain I’m wishing I could send the weather back marked: “Return to Sender.” Back home where they’re headed toward the third blizzard in a week I expect they’d rather mark it: “Refused.” With highs predicted in the seventies there’s no chance of a White Christmas in Austin but there’s every chance of one in Oakville.

I suppose I shouldn’t be complaining about free Wi-Fi but the only time I get a good signal here is between 2 and 4 AM in the morning. At other times things c-r-a-w-l. Remarkably Windows seems to have the ability to adjust for slower download speeds and I’ve been getting fewer failures recently. What I have discovered is that the application that has the best ability to access a signal and keep it active is iTunes; the weakest performer is Windows Mail. In fact it helps if I have iTunes engaged in making a download while I attempt to send mail. I just applied Microsoft’s latest patch for Internet Explorer/Windows Mail. Who knows what new havoc they are going to wreak.

Unfortunately I discovered rather promptly what the latest patch could wreak. It is causing problems for my Norton Anti-virus programme as well s Lavasoft AdAware. After thorough scans I’m satisfied I have no malware or viruses to cause a problem so that leaves me with the latest update. I can live with vulnerabilities but I can do without an anti-virus programme so if problems persist I may have to attempt to roll back that update.

Here it is Friday and the weather is still soggy. After an over-night low of 64º F I suppose I really don’t have all that much to complain about compared to the people back home contending with inches of snow and another blizzard on the way but one tends to take what one has for granted. Austin could use some real rain rather than simply overcast days. Aquifers and springs are drying up here after a prolonged drought.

Read the news this morning and revisited the melt-down of yet another young actor. Back in 1993 the teenaged Lillo Brancato was plucked off a beach on Coney Island to play the part of Robert De Niro’s son in A Bronx Tale. Hailed as a look-a-like for De Niro’s younger self, on the strength of that performance Hollywood threw work Brancato’s way including a stint on the Soprano’s Franchise. Unfortunately fame and the ability to handle it do not come hand-in-hand and Brancato has been in and out of hot water in recent years culminating in his present appearance before the courts on a murder charge after being present when a partner shot a New York City Cop.

Hibernating in Austin

I just made a discovery, it really is ‘Duck Tape’; the label on the package says so. And it really can mend a tear in a garden hose. This morning I ran out of onboard water and had to refill my internal tank. I’d realized I was running low but at 29º F I really didn’t feel like hooking up hoses so I let it go. Packing 30 feet of hose in a cramped space led to the break I just mended. Writing this just reminded me to got out and refill my water jugs. I don’t actually use the water that sits in my holding tanks for drinking.

No one would describe today’s weather as balmy but 43 is a definite improvement over freezing. If I’m going to be sitting around the house I might as well improve my time. Therefore yesterday I made a pot of chili con carne and today I’m making soup. Soup is one of the few things I don’t cook from an exact recipe. It generally contains whatever is available or needs to be used up. It starts with a bean mix I pick up at the bulk foods store which takes approximately 3 hours to soften. To this is added a dried vegetable mix which requires an hour. Refinements come in the last half hour including dried spices and fresh vegetables—chickenless soup base to thicken, sliced carrots, chopped onion, celery if I have it, tomato, fresh peas, and whatever else is at hand. A dash of soy sauce, hot sauce, Worcestershire, salt and pepper get added at the end to boost the flavour.

Finally got myself into a comfortable position to read yesterday and finished a short story I started in September and a couple chapters of John Jakes Homeland. My library has been sorely neglected of late. I also sorted through my DVD collection and settled on what I want to watch next. I still need to sort through my collected tourist bumph and decide what I keep, what I put away, and where to store the booklets I’m using. I also have a growing collection of DVD’s I’ve already watched as well as used CD’s.

Since I arrived in Austin two weeks ago the wind and rain have stripped the pinnately compound leaves from the pecans in this park. With them littering the ground the trees look skeletally bare. Combined with three days of overcast skies the world has a somber look about it. Were I at home there would be snow to brighten the landscape but as much as that might be true I’m not looking to have it here.

Back to my Weekly Rants

We hang the petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office.

Aesop (620 BC - 560 BC)

The man who says he is willing to meet you halfway is usually a poor judge of distance.

Laurence J. Peter (1919 - 1988)

Americans will put up with anything provided it doesn't block traffic.

Dan Rather (1931 - )

The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good.

Samuel Johnson (1709 - 1784)

Outside it feels like someone forgot to turn the sun on this morning in consequence of which I'm thankful my heat-pump is working. Whatever the temperature construction continues apace on the apartment towers next door and the booms started swinging this morning at 7:00 AM before daylight. The patio next door is wrapped in plastic and heated by propane towers. The grackles strut among the fat squirrels and offer wolf whistles to the world. And traffic piles up along the street going nowhere.

It seems a good day to stretch my legs between the two benches at the back of my RV and kvetch about the world at large from the comfort of my home. I've decided that the news is merely reruns of the same old, same old. A murder here, a scandal there; a kidnapping somewhere else and another celebrity divorcing or acting badly elsewhere; a politician on the take here and another war there; the more it changes the more it remains the same. I'd be more than pleasantly surprised if an Obama White House seems different from any other—the very process that got him elected ensures that his hands are tied.

For the distaff side of my audience here are a few laughs:

Dumb Guy Jokes

Q. How do men get excercise at the beach? A. By sucking in their stomachs every time they see a bikini.

Q. What's a man's idea of helping with the housework? A. Lifting his legs so you can vacuum.

Q. Why are all dumb blond jokes oneliners? A. So men can understand them.

Q. How do women define a 50/50 relationship? A. We cook/they eat; We clean/they dirty; We iron/ they wrinkle.

Q. What is the difference between government bonds and men? A. Government bonds mature.

Q. How are men like noodles? A. They are always in hot water, they lack taste, and they need dough.

Q. Why is psychoanalysis a lot quicker for men than for women? A. When it's time to go back to his childhood, he's already there.

Q. Why is it good that there are female astronauts? A. When the crew gets lost in space at least the women will ask for directions.

Q. What does a man consider to be a seven course meal? A. A hot dog and a six pack.

Q. What's the best way to force a man to do sit ups? A. Put the remote control between his toes.

It's overcast today and would appear to be a good day to make a serious attempt at catching up on some of the reading I brought with me and collected along the way. At the very least I'll make an honest attempt at sorting through the travel brochures that threaten to create an avalanche off my bench.

Getting to Know Austin

What I'm discovering over and over again is that Austinites are not the best source of information about their city. Although everyone assured me that Dillo Buses were free "Fare: 50¢" greeted me when I approached my first bus. I was also assured that swimming in Barton Springs Pool was free but the prominent sign outside reads Adults: $3.00. I have also decided that it's far safer to illegally cross the Amtrack Mainline than to take the underpass along South Lamar under it. That everyone has their own idea of the best place to get authentic Texas BBQ should come as no shock but when I checked the menu of Artz Rib House online I experienced sticker shock when I realized that a rack of baby ribs goes for $18.99. That's a lot of hungry when you consider that side dishes are extra! Today I drove past the place and must say I was not impressed by its outward appearance.

Hard as it is to believe I've been in the Austin area for two weeks now, an entire week at this campground. In the last 48 hours I've had a chance to experience one of Austin's Meteorological Mood Swings. Tuesday night I sweltered with an overnight low that didn't drop below 67 and last night the temperature plunged, the wind came up stripping dry leaves off the trees and sleet fell with the large droplets of rain that pelted on my roof. In that cold and damp my heat pump froze up. Tonight we are promised a low of 29!

In the last week I've walked nearly 20 miles exploring everything in all four directions from my campground. Zilker Park, named after the man who donated the land is to the West and on Sunday night I walked over to see the 150 ft tower strung Christmas Tree officially lit with the Austin Wind Ensemble and a school choir in attendance. I enjoyed the Winds if not the windbags who spoke preceding the lighting. Having walked past the Sculpture Gardens I believe I can live without it, I do want to see the Botanical Gardens at some point. The miniature railway looked like fun with its 25 minute ride. We are in the south, one of the streets through Zilker Park is Robert E. Lee Rd.

On Saturday I found a closer Grocery Store and began anew the process of finding my way around another new HEB. In the afternoon I took a walk down Congress St to see the local shopping area there. The place is an odd mix of tattoo parlours, weird art, hotels, eateries, street people and musicians. There was even a pet fare.

After sleeping in went to 10:30 service at Gethsemane Lutheran Church and got an invitation to join their choir. After getting back home I went next door to Romeos for Italian Eggs Benedict served on Focaccia Bread. Their Tomato Basil Soup was tasty as was the Ginger Beer I had with brunch.

Walked uptown on Monday and checked out Book People sinning by not taking along my booklist. I did find a map of Austin—and a needed magnifying pad to go with it and a guide to Austin. Dropped by the Zach Theatre which is in my back yard and bought a ticket for The Santaland Diaries based on a book by David Sedaris for Thursday night. Tuesday was dedicated to household chores and hygiene. This morning, Wednesday December 10^th, after I thawed out drove down to Best Buy to pick up a few of the latest releases and a few classics. Then drove uptown to find Barns and Noble Books—that was a mistake—no parking. And not that wide a selection either. Suppose I'll have to go to one of the larger stores on the edge of town. After finding my way to the place I'd left my car and finding it unscathed drove back home again. In a couple hours I'll be driving up to choir practise. Such is life in the big city. Feels pleasant to stretch out in front of my computer and enjoy the sun streaming in my windows now that the sky has cleared. Those clear skies presage a cold night. Tomorrow believe I'll try out Chicken Fried Steak at Green Mesquite up the street.

Downtown Austin Reality

December 4th

Yesterday reality caught up with expectation.

I spent most of Tuesday December 3rd catching up on chores. Sweeping, mopping, cutting hair, showering, doing laundry, pumping out holding tanks, making beds—those necessary mundane tasks.

Wednesday morning well before dawn I finished packing up my RV, unhooked my land lines, and drove people rushing to work crazy by taking a leisurely drive down into Austin—the winds were still gusting and a moderate speed was in order. Found a place to park outside the service area at Champion Chevrolet and used their Wi-Fi to surf the web while I attempted to ignore their Christmas Musak which is apparently left on all night. The service guy, James Stein was efficient but more interested in protecting himself and his employer than providing me with service. They changed my oil but do not have a hoist that would allow them to do mechanical repairs. Went to their waiting area, found a table and set up shop with my computer. Set to work at my picture files and uploaded a second batch to Webshots:

garthmailman

They can be viewed at my profile on Webshots.

Drove down to HEB and Here Everythings Better is a slight exaggeration. The store I went to in South Austin was on the other side of a divided highway and the “U” turn that should get you there is followed by barriers preventing one from getting into the store. City Planning at its best! Not a bad store once I finally got to it but Nothing Special. I must comment that Hill Country Bacon is the best I’ve ever seen anywhere. The first two packets I picked up were so good I didn’t look further and I bought them even though I didn’t really need bacon—2/$4.00.

At Pecan Grove I found a camp site waiting for me and I have it for the month of December. The hydro works and the water tastes sweet. Pity about the live music at Romeo’s just outside my bedroom window; at least they close at 11:00. I won’t have to buy dinner to ‘enjoy’ it. I did in fact go next door for Dinner last night and quite enjoyed myself. They offer free hot spot Wi-Fi with a strong signal I can pick up next door—pity they need to reset their modem before it can access the internet.

Went for a walk uptown and discovered that streets in Austin are not pedestrian friendly. In fact there is a separate walkway/bikeway crossing Lake Austin to downtown. Once there I had no luck finding tourist or transit information or even a map of Austin. After a nap I set off to visit the Long Center which is literally down the street. After walking around their massive multi-storey parking garage I finally found the Long Centre Box Office and the way inside to the sole gal manning the office. Not only does the Long Centre not sell tickets to anything but the events they corporately sponsor—they don’t even have information on the other events taking place in their venues! The next event there were tickets for is in January. Disappointed I walked back checking out the local quick stop grocery outlets and a myriad number of hamburger and BBQ joints. The Golden Arches just up the street will wait a long time before I patronize it. Drive-through windows seem to be the order of the day and those lined up for them cause traffic chaos.

Wednesday began early and was a busy day. It was my first day in Austin and the best I could expect was an opportunity to get myself somewhat oriented. On the west side of my campground there are two huge derrick cranes towering over the park and the boom of one of them sweeps over people’s Motorhomes and trailers. I’ve now had a good night’s sleep—Austin seems to calm down and roll up the sidewalks for the night—and as soon as the sun has had a chance to warm things up somewhat I need to go explore the rest of the campground and then make a serious attempt at getting some tourist information. It’s also time I started taking pictures again.

Austin Deep in the Heart of Texas

Still no carrot gushers but today at Waterloo Records I made a discovery that helps to explain the attraction of the place for me. Austin was settled by Germans who named it Waterloo back in 1838! It was renamed Austin in honour of Stephen F Austin who is considered father of the State of Texas or if you'd prefer the Republic of Texas which many still consider it. The German connection would tend to explain the number of pubs in town and the presence of so many Lutheran Churches. Today I sampled both.

I arrived in Austin on Wednesday on the eve of the American Thanksgiving Holiday—most I talked to had no idea we have an earlier celebration on our side of the border. Finding no room at the inn so to speak I was forced to drive out into the Hill Country north-west of town to find a campsite and settled in at La Hacienda near Lake Travis after passing the massive dam that impounds the Colorado River creating the lake. The area is dramatically hilly and one is left in no doubt that one has climbed a significant escarpment. Nor is there any doubt that this is the playground of the rich and well heeled. I've become accustomed to my 22 ft Roadtrek being the smallest RV in the park but here most are double that size. Nevertheless I've been made welcome and took Canadian Cranberries to the Campground's Thanksgiving Potluck Dinner.

In many ways thBlote Lake Travis area resembles Oakville in that a car is necessary to get anywhere. As one approaches the scarp monumental estates are prominently visible and huge resortlike developments are everywhere. They aren't gated as in Florida but the look is much the same. Some of the views of Lake Travis are dramatically beautiful. Unfortunately downtown is 20 miles away and this area is way off any bus route.

Accordingly I drove into town today to reconnoitre the situation. First I attended Gethsemane Lutheran Church founded in 1962 on land that was formerly a cotton plantation. Formerly a much older Swedish Lutheran Church the interior is soaring and the chancel is back-dropped by a floor to ceiling stained glass window that wraps around the upper portion of the Nave. In the balcony at the rear is a three-manual organ played by an organist who believes in not allowing hymns to drag. Everything about the place made me feel at home. After worshipping there I drove down to check out Pecan Grove Campground and if things pan out I may be able to set up camp there for the month of December and be close to everything downtown. While I was in the neighbourhood just had to check out Waterloo Records. Until it opened I had brunch at the Ice House next door. Note to self—Huevos Rancheros are poached in the spicy tomato sauce—it isn't added later. Waterloo Records immediately invoked memories of Sam the Record Man. It's on a single floor the but look of aging shelves, the layout, and even the invitation to check the understock, or ask staff if you can't find it are the same. Until I have a list prepared I really don't date buy anything.

It's now Monday morning and the sun just came out. I have some appointments to keep so I'll write later when I've had a chance to go sight-seeing. Finally got a chance yesterday to clean up the mess blogger makes of my E-mailed entries but I didn't get to justifying the margins or adding pictures my connection being too slow.

We're in Texas Now

Since I've been relating with each state I crossed the number of miles of I-10 it possesses I will comment that the great state of Texas begins at milepost 880. Things are definitely bigger in Texas. The agents in their welcome centre were efficient if not particularly welcoming—no coffee, beverages or steak on offer either. It's the first rest area I've encountered that had speed bumps. Before I left Lafayette my fellow campers warned me not to give the Texas Rangers any excuse to pull an out-of-state licensed vehicle over for speeding. Given the crosswinds and rain on the highway today there was no chance of that. As I drove out of Louisiana I noted the continuing tradition begun in Mississippi of huge hoardings along the side of the highway advertising gambling establishments. Yet another reason to abhor the obsession.

Given the unsettled nature of the weather today I'd already decided not to travel too far today so after seven miles of I-10 in Texas I got off and found a campground. I'd not that in Texas the signs read National Highway 10. Oak Leaf Campground is old and looks it; the outlet I plugged my landline into is almost as old as I. There is no Wi-Fi but I was escorted to my site by a slim Texan of medium height and shown where the facilities were located. As the name implies the camp is in a grove of Live Oaks again but this one has palm trees and pines interspersed. The squirrels are quite in evidence here as well but I've yet to have my roof bombarded as it was in Lafayette. So, at one o'clock I have a day to catch up on my reading but apparently I won't be doing it online.

On Tuesday I drove West along I-10 in Texas in calm weather on roads that were straight if largely under construction. The trip though the massive city of Houston was a white-knuckle experience. I may have been cautioned about speeding in Texas but it would seem everyone else does. Now that I have internet access I need to gain Intel and plan for the month ahead in Austin.

Heading for Points West

After leaving the Everglades I stopped in an emphatically black hood for gas and lived to talk about it. From Florida City drove up and took Hwy 41 West and 27 North to Lake Wales. Found a campground and parked for the night. Monday was devoted to visiting Bok Sanctuary with its gardens and bell tower. The carillonneur proved to be on vacation and I could not be persuaded that a recording could do justice to the sound of the ringing of a 12 ton bell. The orange groves on the way in looked tempting. The gardens were well cared for but it was off season for flowering plants. I did enjoy taking pictures anyway.

After my visit to the gardens left with 3 recordings of the bells including the only Christmas CD I'm going to have this year. Until it reaches the coastal cities Hwy 60 crosses the Florida Peninsula almost as straight as a dart with the only change being the occasional passing lane and intersecting highway. I drove back to Vero Beach and spent the night with my friends there—or at least in their home—they had to go out for the evening.

Tuesday I left early for Hobe Sound to see what the RV Centre there could do about my non-functioning heat pump. It took a 100 mile detour and half a day to determine that at some point before I acquired my RV some idiot left a sanding disk in my heat pump and it was blocking the circulation fan. I have yet another reason to be displeased with my dealer. The drive back along US-1 was congested and I was glad when I finally regained I-95 and when I reached Hwy 60 decided to return to Lake Wales RV Park before proceeding further. Spent the rest of the day catching up online and discovered that another cold snap was not only on the way but would plunge the area of Florida into which I intended to head well below freezing. Decided to hole up for another day and spent it doing 'housework' and catching up on some of my E-mail and magazines.

Set off at 7:00 AM Thursday morning and headed up Hwy 27, the Florida Turnpike, and I-75 to I-10. Interstate 10, it seems crosses the Southern US. On my first day I made it as far as Tallahassee. There I found the Tallahassee RV Park on Hwy 90 next to a Shell Gas Station and a Publix grocery store which was within walking distance. I was satisfied to stretch out and check my E-mail. On the way in I witnessed Florida State Prisoners out cleaning garbage along the highway.

On Friday I checked out Publix again went next door to fill up my tank. There I discovered the annoying phenomena of having to prepurchase my gas when what I wanted was the chance to fill my tank. How am I supposed to know how much fuel at $1.99 an American Gallon my vehicle is going to hold? As it was I came very close forcing the last dollar's worth into the tank. This day was marked by an a gusting crosswind that made driving unpleasant and visiting the frequent rest stops feel a necessity. The road seemed to climb steadily and for the first time in memory there were no signs indicating elevation above sea level. I lost track of just how many Florida Counties I passed through. Finally I reached the Alabama Border and stopped at the visitor's centre where a bored attendant passed me a map and various tourist booklets. The drive into Mobile was tense with traffic getting heavier and heavier—thank goodness I missed rush hour. The bridge crossing Mobile Bay which leads into the city stretches for miles and would be pleasant viewing if I hadn't been fighting the wind to keep my lane and watching the exits and lane changes to ensure I didn't get lost. It culminates in a tunnel before one enters downtown. As I approached my intended campground a cloud of dust and smoke from some local industry clouded the sky and the highway until just before I reached my site. Live Oaks do have acorns! The swimming pool at I-10 Campground looks neglected and rimed with green algae and the only internet is a dial-up central connection but the price was right. The electrical hook-up works if the water has a funky taste. Luckily I don't need any water.

I'm on a quest to reach Austin Texas by early next week. The Florida Panhandle seems to stretch on forever and leaves only a small snippet of coastal area for Alabama, indeed a mere 68 miles. There are only 77 miles of Mississippi that I-10 crosses and about 155 miles of Louisiana. Nothing about Texas, of course is small.

This morning I got off early not having E-mail to check to slow me down. Got to Mississippi before the visitor's centre opened and crossed into Louisiana to find there's closed for reconstruction. At a little place called Mandeville visited the local travel centre and learned that instead of counties Louisiana has parishes as we've heard in discussions of flooding in New Orleans because it's a holdover from Napoleonic times. The Country Kitchen Restaurant they recommended for brunch was in the middle of a major road re-construction project, service was glacial and I used a napkin to clean my own table and scrounged a menu from a nearby table, the waitress came within inches of scalding me with coffee and the three egg omelette must have been made with robin eggs. Serves me right for not making my own breakfast! Have I been on the road too long!

LSU are playing Old Miss today in Baton Rouge but I made it through downtown despite that. When the gal at the Cajan Country Campground dragged her low-rider jeans, lip ring and black eye-liner back into the campground office she promptly took two personal calls before deigning to even look at me. She then informed me the campground's water was off and that they had no internet and wanted cash. This and the look I'd had before she slouched back into the office persuaded me I really wasn't ready to stop for the day. I drove on to a KOA in Lafayette. It was only 50 or so miles away but most of the journey took place on a bridge crossing a major swamp with a member of the sheriff's department picking off speeders along the way.

For the record KOA Lafayette is a place I'd recommend. Bring your fishing pole for the large stocked pond, coffee ready at 7:00 AM and pleasant people who even collect your garbage.