Half an Hour Earlier in Newfoundland

May 20, 2010

We backed into Port-Aux-Basques harbour last evening thankful for being able to land at all. Given a choice between fog and standing off-shore in choppy seas we took the fog gladly. Not much to see in the fog unfortunately. I was just thankful for enough visibility for safe driving the 40 km to Grand Codroy Campground. The massive peaks to the right of the highway were lost in fog. At my campground I was informed that I can expect much of Newfoundland to be a cash society, my hostess pocketed the only 20 dollar bill I had on me and sent me to a campsite without doing paperwork.

Friday dawned overcast, damp, and cold but fog free. The drive up to Cornerbrook seemed to take forever. Didn’t seem to be much other traffic though seeing my first moose standing in the middle of the highway near Stephenville added some excitement. At least this one beat a retreat unlike one other I’ve heard of that stood his ground in the middle of the road blocking traffic until authorities shot him and carted the carcass away. The main road into Corner Brook is closed and the detour totally unmarked. My GPS earned its keep this day. Didn’t find the bank I was headed for but did find an ATM inside Sobeys. Reminds me of the CIBC branch that was closed in a mall in Oakville and also replaced by an ATM leaving the letter carrier scratching his head as to how to deliver the registered mail from head office. Got a few groceries, stopped for gas and found my way out of town along the river road which passes by the industrial section of town; the Bowaters Pulp Mill for which the town is famous has pride of place in the centre of town.

I suppose the hiking trail I’ve been noticing to the right of the Trans Canada Highway, TCH, is all that remains of the narrow gauge line that was once traversed by the Newfie Bullet. The drive up to Deer Lake didn’t seem as tedious and traffic increased. The drive into Gros Morne was winding and hilly though the remains of the Applachian Mountains are dwarfed by the Rockies; nevertheless the winding road demanded care and at least two downhill grades had me finding second gear lest I overheat my brakes. Found the Gros Morne Interpretive Centre, purchased my annual park passes, got info, bought a guide in the book store, and picked the naturalists brains. L’Anse Aux Meadows it seems doesn’t open until open until June 1st. I did learn of an ongoing Festival in the park and later my campground host was able to book me onto a boat trip.

The Norris Point KOA is busy for the long weekend and barking dogs, blasting radios and kids on bikes abound. One thing that has struck me in the two days I’ve been on the Rock is the number of people I’ve seen out walking along even the Trans Canada Highway on foot. My campsite is on a hill and leveling the RV proved an impossible task. I look forward to a better site come Monday and the peace and quiet of the mid-week doldrums.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

In Norris Point the Cat Stop is named after the cats that formerly frequented the wharf shed that once occupied its site. Service is cafeteria-style and working from two small deep-fryers definitely not fast food. I’d driven down for the afternoon cruise and when I asked if my parking spot was ok I was told by a man half my age, “You’re fine, my son.” At $15 for a 2-hr cruise in Bonne Bay I got a bargain and nature co-operated with moderately sunny skies, a light chop, and bracing breeze. I managed to catch a glimpse of the harp seal that came by to people watch, the bald eagle on the nest, and the moose one of guides spotted onshore. Just as priceless was the repartee among our guides, their banter, the stories attached to various sites, and the turns of phrase.