Yellowstone

I’ve fallen behind blogging because I’ve stayed at several campgrounds and KOA’s where Wi-Fi was slow and unpredictable making uploading blogs and pictures in particular difficult.

The first impression of Yellowstone is one of its sheer size. Driving from place to place even in the absence of traffic jams caused by drivers gawking at wildlife on the roadway takes considerable time. I started out early and passed the park ranger gatehouse before it opened for the day. I got to the Old Faithful Visitor Centre 45 minutes before the geyser erupted on schedule at 8:47. The Centre has a great view of the geyser but being up close seems important. I had time to tour the centre, visit the bookshop, and watch the Welcome movie which seemed to be mostly about cautions that visitors seem to manage to ignore. 

 

Old Faithful performed a 5 minute show spectacularly. I did not hang around for a second showing. 

 

The hot springs proved to be providing a free sauna as the wind blew the steam over the observers. One has to take a major hike to get a good view of the Prismatic Spring. 

The water running into the nearby river left the yellow deposits that give the park its name. 

 

 

On the way out of the park I passed a bison walking down the left-hand lane leading a group of impatient drivers and a bit later an entire herd whose audience had traffic coming in backed up for 5 miles. People!

Yellowstone West KOA is the better equipped of two such parks barely a mile apart. Just outside the National Park is a small intersection crowded with gas stations and other services. 

The KOA had slow to no Wi-Fi and campers who seemed to think my campsite was a shortcut along their way. The park has an indoor pool and copious numbers of bicycles built for four, even with canopies. The luxury campsites have paved patios and lawn swings. The view of mountains at the back is marred by high tension wires. I did get some spectacular cloud shots. 

 

Left at dawn for a return to the park again finding the gatehouse unmanned. 

Drove up to Mammoth Basin and admired the travertine marble housing built originally for the Buffalo Soldiers who monitored the park and now home to employees. 

The area has a large Post Office and the original mail carrier’s cottage along with the park administration centre. 

 

The visitor’s centre has a smallish bookstore and displays, washrooms in the basement. A nearby general store opens much earlier and has an extensive collection of memorabilia. Travetine Marble is formed when dissolved limestone precipitates during run-off from the springs. 

The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone was cut through limestone formations by the river and must be seen to be believed. 

The lower falls thunder away at a distance, an osprey nesting on a rock tower having a unique view. I opted not to walk down to see the falls up close. 

 

Getting out of the park involved another pass and descent. Good views of snow capped mountains. I decamped ahead of overnight lows of 23 and snow.

Heading to Yellowstone

I got off from Mono Lake at 7:00 AM before it got hot, the wind came up, and gusting crosswinds began. After rising to 9000 ft the road dropped to 4000 and kept going down. After 100 miles my gas gauge had barely moved. My gas mileage today was 18 mpg. Lacking Wi-Fi access I was unable to check for road construction and ended up cooling my heels on HWY 395 and enduring several extended slow patches. Better alternatives existed but my GPS didn't choose them or have records. The drive through Carson City went on and on and on. After I reached I-80 the wind that had come up was following.

I've been through the Green River Tunnel before as it looked familiar. Much of the highway is rated at 80 mph. On the long straightaways there isn't much to see.

Just before Elko stopped at Pilot for gas at $3.13. In town got groceries at Smiths using my Kroger loyalty card.

Missed the Ironhorse Campground and in driving rain settled for the Double Dice Sports Bar and Grill and RV Park. Gambling and pool hall, this is Nevada. I was told their fees were cheaper, they lied.

I've been doing some research. Just as their Indian neighbours to South called those to the north Eskimo, eaters of raw meat; those outside the valley called their neighbours Yosemite, those who kill. Not an association the present owners promote readily. My present location, Elko, meant rocks piled on one another. More opportune is the meaning of Inyo, the place where the great spirits dwell.

My Great Value Wal-Mart Bacon might have been a bargain had it actually been a pound. Welcome to America where a pound is not a pound and a gallon is 128 oz. Where a 2 hour movie takes 3 hours to run because of ads. Where yahoos ride donor cycle crotch rockets without a helmet but wear a face mask for the bugs.

I-80 heads north from Elko to avoid a mountain range and tops out at 8000 ft before dropping to enter the Salt Flats of the Great Salt Lake. The highway runs straight on a raised bed with signs warning of blowing dust and triple signs warning of drowsiness. Five miles out of town one is still among salt beds, there are no suburbs.

New highways since my GPS was programmed and the commuter rail line mid street make getting to Salt Lake KOA challenging. The city is arranged on a grid 100 per block starting from Temple Square in all directions.

This is a luxury KOA though I quip at $60/night they could have made the sites level. Four hundred of their 600 sites are residential park model homes. Staff are busy but friendly and efficient. The price one pays for a site beside the pool I didn't use and the bathroom/laundry is contant traffic. There's a major rail line nearby and the airport across the Interstate. However this is one of the few campgrounds I've seen in the middle of a major city. 

River Jordan

 

Braved the light rail system to get to Temple Square. It's a marvel of efficiency and convenience and seems to run like clockwork. The city pointedly discourages giving change to beggars and provides donation meters for charity.

Visiting Temple Square for me is about the music. The Tabernacle has perfect acoustics. Three hundred and sixty voices, 100-piece orchestra and the famous organ which dominates the hall.

 

The two o'clock organ concert is a short half hour.

With 4 hours to kill I wandered down to the Red Rock Brewing Pub for lunch and ran afoul of a gay pride parade. In a state where "conversion therapy" is still practiced this was a miles long affair I had to brave to get lunch. Amber IPA was well hopped and the cod fish, slaw and chips were good if a mite expensive.

When I got home hot and tired had a 3-hour late afternoon nap. Woke in the wee hours of the morning and had a shower and went back to bed. Found my way to a Smith's for a few groceries and visited their gas bar where my Kroger Card saved me 3¢/gal. Had a scare when I realized my keys were not on me—left in the ignition when I was diverted by other concerns. Fortunately I hadn't locked the door.

Heavy truck traffic on I-15 North to Ogden but then it settles down. The Great Salt Lake is not visible from the highway but the sky remains hazy until after the height of land at Malad Summit 6820 ft. Snow-capped mountains appear to the West. I've finally entered Idaho.

Pocatello at 4462 ft is named after an Indian Chief. The self-described pokey little KOA here was the sixth in the chain. I suffered a few tense moments when I learned that Salt Lake had screwed up my reservation. Staff here chose to honour my payment. The cottonwoods here are aging little left of the one under which I'm parked. With the temp outside 88º my A/C has been running flat out. The campground is owned by a gentleman originally from Sudbury Ontario.

I've spent a fortune on camping for the next week. Check in time at Headwaters Campground Grand Teton is 2 PM. By the route I want to take through the park it's almost 200 miles distant.

Had a tepid coffee from my thermos and got off around 6:30 joining Interstate 15 after a trip through town. If Idaho is known for potatoes it is irrigation that makes them grow and the misters were all busy as I drove along. As anyone who waters a lawn should know doing so in the heat of the day is a waste of water. Idaho drivers don't seem to know about engine maintenance and almost every pickup trailed a cloud of smoke, one half-ton was pulled over and looked to be about to catch fire. Every trailer seemed to be leaking something, I hope not toxic. Three bags of sulphur were broken open in the passing lane. Signs warning drivers to secure their loads were regular roadside attractions.

Left I-15 at Idaho Falls and headed East into the sun on Hwy 28. Stopped at the ice cream stand, (closed) in Swan Valley and had lunch and used their porta potty. Hwy 31 climbs to a summit in Targhee National Forest with warnings forbiding trucks over 60,000 lbs. On the way back down 10% grades had me using low gear. There were two suicide lanes. Jackson Hole is a tourist trap. I stopped for gas at a cramped little Shell Station where the card reader screen was unreadable. Gas was $3.15. Stopped at a visitor centre for a break and used the facilities but didn't find anything worth the money. A left turn takes one toward the parks. None of the Grand Tetons Gate Houses were open so I drove through. The jagged Teton range to the left was outlined in snow. All the pull-outs were on the wrong side of the road. Speed limit throughout the park is 45. I was past the Visitor Centre Road before I could read the sign and did not go back. Caught a few pictures at one pull through site. 

 

Drove into Coulter Bay to pick up a park guide book and watch a one-hour movie on the Yellowstone Wolves. They're Canadian Wolves, an exchange as I remember between our prime minister and the American President. The thought that they might return to Canada hadn't occurred but they'd certainly be quite capable so they were kept in a pen to habituate. Shunning the gate they had to be let go through a hole cut in the fence. On many levels the return of the park's top predator has been beneficial. Although not gratuitous the violent nature of the wolf's life is not avoided. Caring for an animal that hates man is definitely a labour of love for the park ranger team. Interesting to learn that the entire pack cares for the Alpha Female's pups.

Drove the 2 miles past the campground road to reach the Yellowstone Park Gate to pick up their Visitor Guide. Long line to get in. Their closest visitor center being 12 miles in I turned around and came back.

After some driving around parked and walked into the Flynn Ranch Park Lodge. The elderly man who checked me in had no clue how to work their system and they had no record of what I'd already been billed. For the exorbitant price the campsite is a fly infested dirt lot. It is treed and the washroom is across the road. Moderately cramped but I've seen worse. At 5:00 PM I'm ready for bed. No evening programs here and I'm not prepared to drive 25 miles one way and drive back in the dark.

Spent a day in camp reading and catching up on a few chores. Early in the afternoon a thunderstorm developed.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

On to Yosemite

Getting out of Grand Canyon is easier said than done, they haven't bothered to put up signs labelled exit and the roads have changed since my GPS was loaded.

On the way to the washroom saw ravens picking apart someone's carelessly abandoned garbage and a deer wandering about. Met two more crossing the road on my way and saw at least 4 more browsing alongside the highway in two groups. Sort of concentrates one's attention.

Rejoining I-40 in Williams I drove west into the Mojave. Stopped at a Loves Truck Stop and should have filled up there; rather had a sub at Subway. Surrendered my one orange at Agricultural Inspection—welcome to California. Needles lived up to its rep—hotter than hell and a 40 mph gale blowing. The Campground was a wasteland of blowing dust and the office staff person kept me waiting while she railed away to someone on the phone. This was one of those parks where campers are a nuisance. Campsites were at a considerable distance from the washrooms and the pool beyond that. Temperature approached 100. My A/C worked overtime. 

 

Shook off the dust of the place and headed west on I-40 after getting gas at $4.50/gal. Continued West on I-40 to Barstow. Drove on thirteen miles into town and shopped at a brand new Wal-Mart where staff were present throughout the store and went out of their way to be helpful! Claimed my reservation at KOA and got my onboard propane tank filled. Wagon Wheel Campsite configurations assume the campers like one another and maximize the number of sites. After working on my E-mail and writing more exited my van to find a truck and trailer parked in my site inches from my door. The same yahoo drove a doon buggy past my window at 11:30. Well it was Saturday Night on Memorial Day Weekend—what did I expect?

Driving North on HWY 395 after paying cash to gas up at $3.34 I watched the gauge drop rapidly as I climbed mountains. Entered the High Sierras where the road tracks between two ranges with snow-capped mountains to the west and ridges of lava looking like burnt chunks of coal. Surprising to encounter a small town with green lawns and trees along the highway.

Stopped at the East Sierra Visitors Centre at Lone Pine where the road to Death Valley led to the East. Got some pix while I had lunch and picked up some info and some water.

Finally made the left-hand turn into Mammoth Lake and looking for a gas station missed the Mammoth Mountain Campground on the edge of town. Gas was 4.15/Gal. If Napa had been open I'd have replaced my windshield wipers. Drove up to Mammoth Mountain Resort and found hundreds skiing on several runs with chair lifts and gondolas in motion. The road up was winding and lined with cars that wouldn't fit in the resort parking lot. Stopped to talk to a concierge at the Resort Inn and got set straight. 

 

Mammoth Mountain Campground has campsites packed in a Bristle Pine Forest amid gigantic erratic rocks landscapers would charge thousands to supply. My campsite was on a parking lot with services lining the rear of each hash-marked site.

 

Went for a walk to get above the trees and catch some pix of snow-capped mountains. Brief spot of hale while I was setting up. Quiet night and slow Wi-Fi as shared by a packed campground.

Packed up and returned to HWY 395 and drove up to Lee Vining and turned left for Tioga Pass Road. The Yosemite Gatehouse is at the top of the pass at nearly 10,000 ft. Getting there made the gauge drop again. Yosemite Valley is at 4000 ft and despite the elevation change there are a remarkable number of uphill grades along the way. The road is narrow and guardrails are non-existent so watch the road or become a permanent part of the scenery. Most of the pullouts were on the opposite side of the road and faced the rising sun. I made good use of second gear. I saw only one rock wall memorable of CCC Work along the Blue Ridge. I would not want to attempt the drive in the dark when there would be the additional hazard of wandering wildlife. Getting there seemed to take forever and as always the most spectacular scenery occurred in locations where stopping was not possible.

By the time I reached the visitors centre in the valley the parking lot was filled. I drove on until I found a spot. Walked back to the centre and found the Theatre. In the main the program covered material I'd already seen in the Ken Burns National Parks Series, Americas Best Idea and was in fact produced by Ken Burns. One of the speakers was Sheldon Johnson used extensively in Burn's mini-series, apparently a Park Ranger still working in the system. Toured the bookstore and found a Ranger unattended in the Centre. Toured the art gallery dedicated to Ansell Adams and the museum where an elder was explaining the use of stone and basket weaving with willow and bracken fern roots as well as Redbud tree bark. Black Oak acorns were formerly prime native food.

Walked on to see Yosemite Falls walking up to the base of the falls. Met a park ranger on horseback. Wandered around and got views from various viewpoints in my search for my van. Even took the Shuttle at one point. Drove up to the campground and waited in a lineup that barely moved. Got the bear talk. Found my site and backed in after someone moved a car that made swinging in nearly impossible. Sitting in front of an open window with the roof fan working overtime in 80º heat. No facilies beyond a restroom with sinks and flushing waterclosets, water fill station plus waste water disposal site. Apparently bears are regular visitors here though so far no sign. 

 

Walked over for the evening program touring Half-Dome Village. Saw nothing I needed more than the money in my pocket. A Ranger was giving an animated children's talk that won him my admiration. Talked with him after. In walking about the grounds ran into one of the maintenance staff in his beat up park truck and stopped for a long talk that provided his perspective on the park. He's a member of the teamster's union. The custodial workers are unionized in this park.

Missed the beginning of the hour-long movie that constituted the evening program. As it ended a Full Moon was rising and Jupiter was visible among the trees. Getting back to my van saw me take a long exhausting hike about the park. I got night time views of the falls and wandered in circles it seemed until I used my tablet to navigate home. Enjoyed a couple beers and some ice cream.

Quiet night undisturbed by ursines or other creatures until the garbage compactor truck struck at 7:30 AM. After that my running my generator to make breakfast was immaterial. Even so I took my nearest neighbours camped in a tent a hot coffee.

Walked out to the campground kiosk and got my second campground pass and permission to occupy if the site was vacant, plus an official complaint form. Drove over to the new site and backed in, filled out the form and walked it back to the man. After the long walks I've had in the last few days putting my feet up feels good. This second site is deeper into the campground and well-shaded.

After some writing and some rest walked down to the so-called Nature Centre to discover it

was a volunteer, folding table and an umbrella stand. Oh Well. After communing with the rapids nearby caught the bus up to the Visitors Centre and toured the "Indian Village". Picked up a book on the Sierra Nevada and went to see the Spirit of Yosemite which proved to be far superior to the Park Video by Burns.

Yosemite got rain while I was in the area. By the time I made it home it was time to make supper and go to bed with my reading.

Wednesday Morning decided waiting to operate my generator was moot after hearing the local adolescent female population hoot and holler. Took my time driving out of the park stopping often to admire the vistas and take photographs.

When I reached Lee Vining Mono Vista Campground was willing to take my cash but not let me move in until 1:00 PM. Accordingly I drove up to the Mono Lakes Visitor's Centre where the staff were more accommodating. Got to use free Wi-Fi though I barely skimmed the surface of Four day's E-mail. The building is architecturally beautiful and has a plaza overlooking the lake plus a path through the desert plantings. Water greedy cities to the west have stolen water from the streams supplying the lake causing its level to drop 45 feet. Originally formed by volcanic action the lake has no outlet and its water is 9% salt supporting only brine shrimp and fly larva.

The bookstore had a copy of James Kaizer's Yosemite not available in the park one suspects in support of sales of their own inferior guide. The theatre presented a movie that provided an excellent overview. The service area canopy was covered with solar panels. 

 

Driving back into town Shell Gas was $4.59 in competition with $4.99 at Chevron. After hooking up in camp walked down toward town and at a motel ran into a biker from Half Moon Lane in Oakville. His buddy was from Mount Forest. Talked for quite a while before giving up and coming back home.

My next door neighbour here has a small white airstream like trailer and being of suspicious minds have a Denver Boot attached to one of its tires and use both an electrical and water filter. For the record this may be Mono Vista Campground but from my vantage point there is no view of the lake. Another first for me in eleven years of travels it's the first time I've used a pay shower, though for the record I was supplied with two free tokens. Five minutes was more than I needed so I have a souvenir, the cold water continues here after the hot shuts off. After wandering around Yosemite for three days I needed that.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Grand Canyon

The drive from Flagstaff up to Grand Canyon rises and falls along steep grades. I opted to take Switzer Canyon Rd out of town passing through pine forest before entering a National Forest that appeared rather stunted. Leaving early ensures the possibility of finding parking when arriving at the park. Mid-morning light lessens the drama of the canyon and crowds of people struggle for room at the railings. A constant haze hangs over the ravine. Talking to a park ranger at the Visitor's Centre entails waiting in a long line-up. Water fountains are located everywhere. I enjoyed the proffered introductory movie and toured the park bookstore before driving over to register for my campsite. A-2 right at the entrance a short stroll from the shuttle bus stop. 

Settled in and got my photos organized and had lunch. Late afternoon walked over and checked out the General Store shaking my head at the prices and visited the Park Lodge where I used their internet signal to check mail. Found the McKee Amphitheatre and learned I didn't have my devices set to Mountain time. I did have reading material but wished for a pillow for the wooden bench.

At 7:40 Mountain Time lanky pony-tailed Ranger Joel arrived and began answering questions from all comers. Creationists might have become uncomfortable. The slide show told the history of Grand Canyon in terms of the idea of the park. Beginning as a useless piece of real estate lacking in resources, moving on to a fascinating historical geological artifact, becoming a tourist trap for money-grabbing entrepreneurs, and finally a National Park. Highlighted was the tension between the twin goals of providing recreational resources for 4 million tourists per year and preserving unique ecosystems for native flora and fauna. The study of the canyon's geological strata goes on to this day and tour groups brave the mighty Colorado.

Arose at 4:30 to discover dawn's early light already upon us. The sky is devoid of cloud though haze hangs constantly over the miles wide canyon. Got to take photographs as the sun rose over the North Rim. Were I ambitious I'd be walking up to see the sun set over the South Rim but alas. I walked the Rim Trail West until my camera ran out of battery power. Walked back past the amphitheatre putting in nearly 5 miles. Took the shuttle bus after a rest to visit the park bookstore and read E-mail at the lodge. Settled in here to catch up with my literary efforts.

Ranger Lance at his evening presentation talked about using your senses to "see" the park. Once more the programme was rather earnest in nature. This 31-year-old was a troglodyte.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Heading Out for Grand Canyon

Left Austin in the dark of night heading up 183 avoiding Toll Road Perry's money grab. After daylight arrived entering the Texas' Panhandle I ran into three hours of heavy rain that left ponds on parking lots and flooded areas on service roads. The route passes through wind farms, cotton fields where giant bales lie under cover along with loose cotton. Grain is grown here as well and elevators mark small towns. Fields are dotted with pumpjacks. Supposedly Billy the Kid lies buried in Fort Sumner. 

 

I spent a restless night in Lubbock and drove on to Albuquerque. From an aging KOA to the luxury of the American RV Resort where pop corn awaited and breakfast in the morning is complimentary. The sudden hale storm beat off some of the dust I'd collected.

West along old Route 66 on I-40 one climbs to the continental divide West of Gallop, NM at over 8000 ft. Having a kamikaze coyote immolate itself under my tires was just one more passing occurrence. Entering Arizona one learns one is entering the largest Reservation on Earth. Exits are dotted with Indian Trading Posts and Casinos. The Buttes and Mesas create a spectacular panorama but the undulating landscape becomes uniform desert scrub that comes with blowing dust, unstable roadbeds, and sudden gusting crosswinds. Cattle dot fields that hardly seem able to support them.

The aging KOA in Flagstaff is located in a pine forest where campsites are packed in like sardines. At 7000 ft I felt the altitude. It cools off there at night.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

Hanging Out in Austin

Spending time in Austin was a matter of renewing acquaintance with former friends. 

I got to learn the intricacies of Senior's Softball, stay awake for 3 hours of Traditional Jazz, worship at Gethsemane, renew my library card, see trains miniature and full-sized, visit the Moline Cemetery, eat BBQ, see ersatz Elvis perform, shop at HEB, drink Shiner Bock, read the Chronicle, and attend Pflugerville's Deutchenfest where I tried bratwurst and sauerkraut. 

 

Two weeks went by rather quickly.

Half Way to Austin

Lost the sun and blue sky today but savouring sweet lemons an overcast sky is easier on the eyes. The wind failed to swing North in time to assist me remaining contrarily crossed to my line of route.

Began the day with a shower so they wouldn’t smell me coming in Memphis. While I sat at breakfast 5 people including 3 adults walked through my campsite close enough to touch my windows. Don’t they know it’s legal here to defend your castle with deadly force? Otherwise extremely bad manners.

Began my day with a slowdown that revealed the grisly site of a collision that separated the cab of whatever vehicle it once was from its frame. Next, the female driver of a small grey Toyota who hogged the left lane for at least 50 miles and probably believes she has the highway bought and paid for.

Arkansas highways retain my previous billing, the joints between concrete blocks remain extremely uneven. On the plus side their Welcome Centre was personed by two gals, the first manned site I’ve encountered. I do not recommend their complimentary coffee. Spent a lot of time passing transport trucks again today.

Tom Sawyers RV Park proved to be fully open though recently partially flooded as the Mississippi recedes.

They found a site for me though the gal tried to upsell me on a more expensive paved site. As the billing states Wi-Fi free but not guaranteed; it is slow.

Washroom on wheels

Spring 2018 Travels

Sunday April 29, 2018

After slogging 18 loads over three days down to the RV amid locked doors, the elevator and Saturday’s rain finally had a soak and went to bed last night. Was up again at 4 and off after carefully backing out of the parking lot at 5 AM. First stop half a mile to gas up at $1.37.9/L at Petrocan where I was greeted by a local cop. This station is 24/7. Traffic was light at this hour on a Sunday but the gusting wind blowing snow flurries was not welcome though it wasn’t strong enough to be a bother on the two Skyways.

Getting my new camera registered at Canada Customs was a pain, even getting there a challenge. When I finally reached US Customs the middle—aged agent smiled and welcomed me to the US. After 10 years an agent with a sense of humour. Not all Trump’s Minions take their lead from the boss. This one winked at the idea of Trump getting a Nobel Prize. Was there ever a border crossing not under construction? The Peace Bridge is reduced to 2 tight poorly marked lanes.

At the Pennsylvania Welcome Centre the agent was in her office on the phone and never appeared. Along the way was surprised to see daffodils in bloom. The Ohio Welcome Centre was open but no one showed up. Outside a Phoebe was announcing his name and Red-Winged Blackbirds were busy setting up housekeeping in the marsh. Vineyards adjoined the area.

Astabula had escaped my notice until today. Stopped at a very busy Dennys in Austinburg for Brunch. The background noise covered most of the squeals from a table of 10 unruly imps accompanied by a Junior woman who lived in a shoe. W. C. Fields would have found them vastly underdone. I did not linger over coffee.

[I did linger over the letter k while I had a 3 hour restorative nap there.]

When I looked outside a large full moon was rising just over the horizon.

Realized when I reached my campground that I should have topped up my tank at the Pilot beside Dennys. Got a low fuel warning as I arrived, I’d been more concerned with whether the GPS would find the place than looking at my Fuel Gauge. Somehow feels like deja vue all over again. Fuel in New York State was $3.09.9/USGal. In Ohio around $2.65.9.

Trees are in flower in the park.

Monday, April 30, 2018

Made it to the gas station without having to walk. After driving around Columbus, Ohio set out along I-70 amid heavy truck traffic. The saving grace is the fact that on flat prairies one doesn’t get caught behind two transport trucks trying to pass one another on a grade.

Stopped at a Loves Truckstop in Knightstown for Lunch at Subway before braving Indianapolis. Seems the place was the filming location for the Gene Hackman movie Hoosiers. Rest of the day was mile after tedious mile. The Indiana Welcome Centre was unmanned and simply a rest stop with coin operated bandits and a rack of advertising.

Every time I stop at Terre Haute the interchange seems to have been changed and the route to the KOA is different. Getting there was a nightmare that saw me driving around in circles. The young people at the counter didn’t know how to handle the KOA system and bungled my sign-in. However I can forgive a lot when I get a good Wi-Fi signal.

After supper I ran into Dan, a Chippewa from Bermidji, Mn whose parents own the park. He lives in a tent on site. Sat at his picnic table in front of a fire and talked, well I talked. I enjoyed his perspective but it didn’t get my e-mail read. Tomorrow I gain an hour as I enter the central time zone. 

 

Tuesday, May 01, 2018

First thing this morning downloaded and installed Windows latest Feature Update, a massive file that took considerable time to download and install. While I was waiting took advantage of the pleasant sky-blue morning to visit the donkeys and take some pix. It was warm enough last night that my own hot air kept the RV Warm. Discovered the hard way that the entrance to I-70 Westbound has changed since I last traveled these parts and has moved to the opposite side of the road. Drove up and filled my tank at Pilot for $2.54.9.

Heavy truck traffic until I headed South on I-57. Didn’t bother to stop at the Illinois Welcome Centre and drove through to Whittington. Stopped at a Restaurant/Gas station at the corner and found a walk in beer fridge, a wall of pop coolers, aisles of chips in the gas station store front. The Restaurant has “entertainment”, a games/party room, and a family restaurant so marked.

Whittington Woods RV Park is in a hardwood forest as advertised and the trees are just beginning to bud out. The place is quiet. 

 

Went for a walk in the woods before settling in. 

 

Our Lost Railways

 In 2013 the sole engineer on a crude oil train at the end of his allowable operating hours set the air brakes on his train and repaired to a hut for needful rest. While he was sleeping the idling engine overheated causing a fire which was extinguished by local firemen. Without notifying the owners or attempting to find the engineer they shut down the unit that was powering the compressed air for the brakes. When the brakes failed the train rolled downhill and jumping the tracks caught fire incinerating downtown Magantic. So who is responsible for this calamity? The engineer followed the rules in good faith and lacking a backup engineer had little choice. The train's owners have ceased to exist as a company.

As fuel oil becomes more expensive and profit margins tighter rail lines cut corners. Single-man crews become all to often the norm. Rail bed ballasts become unstable and aging railway ties rot, spikes rust, and wear and tear on rails and their joints take their toll. Rail line inspectors walk only so far from the nearest railway crossing. Derailments occur all to often. In many cases rural level railway crossings have only the most rudimentary warnings. You will remember that on its maiden trip the ill-fated Turbo cut a transport truck in two. A high-speed train from Montreal to Toronto could make the trip in just over an hour downtown to downtown, a trip that in today's environment takes 4 or 5 hours by air. But given present conditions this is only a dream.

It was in Mulroney's era that our rail system was decimated. No rail lines remain in PEI and little remain in NS. The narrow gauge Newfie Bullet exists as a museum in St. John's its line a part of the Trans Canada Trail. Although crude still travels to the Irving Refinery in Saint John transport trucks clog our highways creating wear and tear to replace the much more efficient rail transport.  

Everest

Aircraft pilots and passengers need pressurized air and oxygen above 10,000 ft. Base camp for Everest is at 17,000. Altitude sickness becomes an issue above 5,000 and can be fatal the only treatment a return to lower altitudes. It is only one of the possible bodily reactions to thinning air. Health and conditioning are no predictors of whether these complications will hit. Sound like a tourist destination?

Aside from the body's reaction to lowering air pressure is the issue of thinning air and drop in available oxygen. The Sherpa's who make a living packing for climbers have lived their entire lives for generations at high altitude and their bodies have adapted.

If you've traveled to mountainous regions such as Banff and Jasper in Canada then you're aware of the body's need to acclimatize. Among other things the blood sees an increase in hemoglobin. Until that happens any exertion can leave you panting, suffering profound fatigue, head ache, and stomach upset. Cooking at elevation is another issue. Water boils at a lower temperature and baked goods require less leavening plus fires are harder to start and keep burning.

Back to Everest. Because it's there seems a fool-hardy reason to enter a death zone. Above Camp four on Everest the air is so thin it cannot support helicopter flight and the bodies of those who go there are dying. Remaining too long will kill you and getting trapped by weather is an ever-present danger and will result in your death. No rescue is possible at that elevation and the bodies of the dead litter the mountain as no one has the energy to carry them away.

Finally cold is an ever-present menace the temperature rarely rising above 0º F and dropping to -30 with -60 wind chills. Plus with people from many nations gathering in polluted, pestilential third-world slum conditions diseases rapidly become epidemics. And yet people pay $100,000 or more to go there as tourists.

Virus-free. www.avast.com