Cape Breton

The drive up to Cape Breton begins with a trip to Truro. First order of business was full gas tank. Eventually I'll remember that Wilson's in Enfield is at the second entrance to the highway. I gassed up at Petrocan. The drive to the Canso Causeway is on limited access highway until the last few miles. I stopped at the tourist bureau after I'd crossed over. Stopped again to shop for groceries in Port Hawkesbury. Drove up to Little Bras-D'Or Lake to camp at Arms of Gold Campground. Stayed over an extra day as I needed the rest but ended up wasting a sunlit day for rain that arrived a day late.

Walked down to the loch crossing a railroad track that ceased operations the day before. Startled a Great Blue Heron and sat a spell. The peace was disturbed by a local yokel on a dirt bike. I passed up on a trip to the Miner's Museum and lunch at Wilma's on site. The rain started Sunday Evening and continued through the forenoon next day. At least I missed the suête that blew 114 mph Sunday Night in the Cheticamp area.

Monday Morning dawned foggy. My one bit of luck was driving straight onto the Englishtown Ferry. Cape Smokey was shrouded in natural smoke and the world disappeared a few feet from my windows as I drove up to Ingonish. Early Season Staff were still getting used to using Park's Canada's Wonky Software and still leaning about their park. The bookstore and guide books are at the other end of the park in Cheticamp. The park map provided is rather rudimentary. Got a campsite and settled in to wait out the rain. The evening program in the amphitheatre, outdoors proved to be a tour of the park's 26 hiking trails. I took plastic along to sit upon and a head lamp that reflected the fog on my way home.

Tuesday Morning I awoke to brilliant sunshine. Ideal weather to drive the highlands. Aside from a patch of dense fog on the inland highlands the views were spectacular. The roads winding and betimes steep and mountainous. I stopped in Cheticamp to pick up a park guide and a few other books. The movie in the theatre at the Visitor's Centre proved to be an apologia for Water Parks in Canada, not an intro to Cape Breton Highlands. Outside the Service Berries were just beginning to form fruit. Stopped in Cheticamp for fuel and failed to find either the campground I was looking for or the pub that was to have had an evening program. Drove on along more winding occasionally rough roads to Mabou where the Rankin Sister's cafe looked unprepossessing and lacked parking. Drove on until I saw a sign for Sunset Sands RV Park in Port Hood.

The overflow parking proved to be beside the community pool and arena the campground proper fully occupied by seasonal campers. Across the road was the Catholic Cemetery with the church up on the hill. A wharf and rock reinforced sandbar defined a protected beach where one person was out in the water while the rest sat on the beach. A yahoo on a seadoo roared back and forth making waves and noise. Come evening I got the rare opportunity to see the sun set over the ocean.

The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique prove to be a short drive the next morning after a casual breakfast. I parked in front of the community centre and explored the neighbourhood. Finding the door open entered the Catholic Church and met Father MacMillan in his nave. The church is well maintained and displays simple beauty. A MacDonald Tartan hangs from the truncated balcony. I learned that despite the name the area is now 100% Celtic, not Acadian as the name would suggest. Walked over to the gazebo in the Tartan Gardens where later flowers will define a tartan pattern. Next door was the funeral home and opposite the General Store and NSLC. The Post Office was just beyond—they still have one. Always fun to see what the must have items would be. Here also a glimpse in the locals taste in wine and beer. A single bottle in presentation case of the locally produced Single Malt Whisky sells for $79.00 for 750 ml. No sale. Walked over to the Community Hall with its displays of local Tartans and a model schooner that rivaled the Bluenose. A tribute to Buddy MacMaster. At the back of the stage a giant fiddle that filled the backstage wall.

I passed on visiting the interactive museum and briefly browse the small boutique. The lunchroom boasted a small alcove with rogues gallery between the windows and a few tables around a central stage area where a female fiddler played on mike with electronic piano. I had chowder, fishcakes, chow chow and chips—potato chips. Sampled the local 'Scotch', acceptable with a finger of water. A tiny ramekin of strawberry rhubarb crisp with a dollop of whipped cream and coffee which was quite good. With tip $40, I am a spendthrift today. Tipped the musicians a twoonie.

Drove down to Canso finding the winding road a bit dangerous at the posted speed. I slowed down. The sky today is cloudless or nearly so. Canso has sprouted a wind farm since my visit 2 years ago. Found my camping area and parked without assistance, then went in search of a program. The place will fill up but I seem to be one of the few early arrivals. I was thankful when my generator started to power my A/C. Time for Supper.