Lunenburg

Visiting Lunenburg evokes childhood memories of a drive in our old Ford pickup at 25 MPH the twenty miles from home to pay our yearly taxes and visit the relatives on Kaulback St where children were expected to be seen and not heard. I probably made the trip from Falmouth in the same amount of time.

Its designation as a World Heritage Site ensures that little changes in Lunenburg though the sign on old HWY 3 directing one to “New Highway”, 103, has finally come down after 4 decades.

After its protracted refit the twenty-million-dollar Bluenose II is finally undergoing sea trials. No word yet on what further adjustments it may need before it's ready to take on the public. It is a beautiful ship engendering the proud tradition of Lunenburg Seafarers. An eight-sided compass-shaped monument honours the hundred ships and many more men lost during two and a half centuries of the Lunenburg Fleet going down to the sea. The most recent entry was for 2014 paying mute testimony to the fact that seafaring remains a profession fraught with danger. One of the two 1935 entries is for Harris Oxner whose wife saw her husband, the captain's ship return to port from her 'widows walk' with its flag at half mast. Men lost at sea leave behind no earthy grave a grieving widow can visit. She with her daughter moved back into the home in which she grew up living out her days with her maiden sister. Hazel and Edna suffered the indignity of having devastating hurricanes bear their names.

Once more I'm camped at the Lunenburg Board of Trade Campground. The crew of a movie, The Healer, being shot in town have taken over the upper level but save for one other motorhome I have the lower level overlooking the back harbour to myself. It is quiet save for the hum of two generators above. I took advantage of a beautiful sunlit day to wander the lower harbour section of town.

First stop was the Ironworks Distillery where Chester the orange tabby stray with a rumpled ear and unbalanced head adopted them last November assuming the run of the place and greeting patrons ever since. His new dark rum was not to my taste but home bound I picked up some Apple Brandy, a rather fiery brew.

The Cape Rouge was moved to the Bridgewater Wharf after sinking in Lunenburg, (it serves as Duke's boat in TV series Haven). The rest of the harbour area has various working vessels under service with pride of place given to the Bluenose II and her entourage. Various companies offer whale watching—minky whales this time of year, deep sea fishing, harbour tours, and sailing excursions. Finally the two ships of the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. There I found a come back from away who engaged me in chat for several hours. I forget his name but he lives across the harbour on the road to the golf course near the home he grew up in.

Dropped into Foodland for raisin bread and to look for fish. Given its location the place stocks very little fish but I picked up some frozen breaded haddock for supper. I was seeking some fish paddies.

After supper wandered over to the Mariner King to meet my tour guide for the Haunted Ghost Tour of Lunenburg. Since I proved to be the only guest the part owner and I spent the rest of the evening swapping lore. Superstition marks the life of a sailor as the sea remains uncontrollable and unpredictable. The former owner's wife haunts the now Boscowan Inn as a naughty poltergeist. Peter Mailman was hung outside the former Lunenburg jail after bludgeoning his wife with an axe on a trip to the woods to pick berries. Various superstitions influence architecture including identical back and front doors so built to confuse the devil who enters only from the back door. No trip to Lunenburg is complete without a visit to St. John Anglican where seventeen people lie buried in the basement crypt. No knowledge remains as to the reasons for so honouring those given this resting place. They range in age from infant to seniors. The other icon of Lunenburg proudly stands on the height of land as it has since it was built for $30,000 in 1885—The Lunenburg Academy. The basement washrooms were termed the dungeon by students who feared to go there. Many students walked to school through the adjoining cemetery still accepting the dearly departed. A view of the coming conjunction of the planets Venus and Jupiter in the early evening sky marked the end of our tour. I was even give a ride back to the campground.

Spent a quiet night after a shot of brandy and awoke Tuesday morning to a brief ray of sunshine. No fog but rain is predicted to be on the way. I need to get dressed and go in search of a plate of fish patties and chow chow.

Walked uptown along Montague St in search of same, in fact walked all the way to the end past the French Cemetery. When I did find them they were well-browned but lukewarm, the chow chow was over-sweet and the accompanying Caesar Salad had one lone crouton. I'll eat in tonight.

I yielded to the temptation to pick up a very bright print of the Lunenburg Waterfront. Bought myself a pair of Blunstones, definitely not a casual purchase but I needed new shoes and the price was right.

Stopped at Adams and Knickle for fresh Scallops fresh off the boat yesterday--$11/lb. Met Chester the cat out for a prowl. Out to visit a regular customer he had no time for me.

At 3:04 still no rain. When it came the fog horn started as well but contrary to predictions it was a gentle sprinkling that lasted overnight and cleared for a beautiful Wednesday.

After clearing up what proved to be a minor engine issue—a gas cap jarred loose by rough roads I drove off to visit the Olde Sod in Midville Branch. As the saying goes, you can't go home. I am not the lad who departed in 1967 and home has changed inexorably. Most of the people I grew up around I can visit in the cemetery.